Roofing questions and answers

The price depends on the size and pitch of the roof, the material you choose, how many old layers have to come off, the condition of the roof deck underneath, and details such as chimneys, skylights and access. Asphalt shingles are usually the most affordable option; metal and cedar cost more.

We give every homeowner a free written estimate after looking at the roof. For a quick idea first, try our instant roof estimate, which measures your roof from satellite imagery.

We remove only as much roofing as we can make watertight the same day, and cover any open areas with underlayment or tarps before we leave. On Southern Vancouver Island, we plan each tear-off around the forecast and stop work if heavy rain or high winds arrive.

Move furniture and electronics away from the leak, catch dripping water in buckets, and lay towels down to protect floors. If water is near light fixtures or outlets, turn off power to that area at the breaker panel. Take photos of the damage for your insurance claim.

Yes. Our crew works at height every day and uses proper fall protection on two-storey homes and steep roofs. Sections that need extra safety equipment are priced on your quote before any work begins.

Most roof inspections take a couple of hours. Larger or more complex roofs, steep pitches and attic checks can take longer. We confirm the expected time when we book your visit.

Most houses take one to three working days from tear-off to cleanup. Large or complex roofs, steep pitches, metal and cedar take longer, and wet or windy weather can add days. A careful crew only removes as much roofing as it can make watertight the same day.

Yes. On the coast, roofing is done year round by planning around the forecast and protecting the roof at the end of every day. Some products need mild temperatures for their seal strips to bond fully, so the timing of your project may depend on the material.

A repair makes sense when the damage is limited and the rest of the roof is in good condition. Replacement makes more sense when problems are widespread, the roof is near the end of its life, or repeated repairs are adding up. We will tell you plainly which one your roof needs. Our roofing education page explains the warning signs.

Often 20 to 30 years, depending on the product, how well it was installed and ventilated, sun exposure and how moss is managed. Constant moisture and moss can shorten a roof's life on Vancouver Island if they are left alone.

Yes. Moss holds water against the shingles, lifts their edges so wind-driven rain gets underneath, and clogs gutters. Have it treated with methods the shingle manufacturer approves. Avoid pressure washing, which strips the protective granules from asphalt shingles.

It depends on your municipality and the work. Replacing roofing with similar materials often does not need a building permit, while structural changes usually do. We will tell you whether your project needs one and look after it when it does.

Yes. Estimates are free and in writing. They set out the materials, the scope of work, how damaged decking is handled if we find it, and the warranty that applies.

We serve Greater Victoria and Southern Vancouver Island. See our service areas page for the communities we work in most. If you are nearby, ask anyway.

Two separate warranties: the manufacturer's warranty on the materials, and our workmanship warranty on the installation. Both are set out in writing before work begins. Our warranty page explains what each one covers.

Yes. Every reinstallation customer gets a private online account showing the stage the project is at, photos and short videos from the job site, and their contract, invoices and warranty documents.

Move belongings away from the drip, catch the water in a bucket, and if the ceiling is bulging, carefully poke a small hole to let the water drain in one place. Do not go up on a wet roof. Then report the emergency or call us so we can help secure the roof.

Damaged decking is replaced before the new roof goes on, because new shingles cannot be properly fastened to soft or rotted wood. Your written estimate sets out how decking replacement is priced, usually per sheet of plywood, so there are no surprises. We photograph any damage we find and show you before replacing it.

We cover gardens, shrubs, decks and siding with tarps and plywood, and place the disposal bin where it will not damage your driveway or lawn. At the end of the job we clean up all debris and run a magnetic sweeper over the yard and driveway to pick up stray nails.

No, you do not need to be home, but we ask for access to power outlets and a clear path for the crew and bin. Expect noise and some vibration during tear-off, so move fragile items off walls and shelves. You can follow each stage of the project through your online customer account.

The old roofing is removed down to the deck, the deck is inspected and damaged sheathing is replaced, then new underlayment, flashing, ventilation and roofing are installed. The site is protected throughout and cleaned at the end, including a magnetic sweep for nails.

Sometimes it is allowed, but a full tear-off is usually the better choice. It lets us inspect and repair the deck, replace flashing and underlayment properly, and keeps the roof eligible for the best manufacturer warranties.

The most common causes are failed flashing around chimneys, skylights and walls, cracked rubber pipe boots, and shingles lifted by wind. Moss also holds water against the roof and pushes up shingle edges, letting rain get underneath. Most of these are straightforward repairs when they are caught early.

A permanent repair needs a dry roof, but an active leak can be secured in wet weather with tarps or temporary patches to stop further damage. We then return to complete the permanent repair at the first dry opening.

Most roof repairs are finished in a few hours to one day. Larger jobs, such as rebuilding flashing around a chimney or replacing a damaged section of decking, can take longer. We tell you the expected time before work begins.

We match colour and style as closely as possible using current products from the same or a similar manufacturer. New shingles can look slightly different at first because older shingles fade with sun and weather. The difference usually blends in over time.

Insurance usually covers sudden damage, such as a fallen tree or a severe windstorm, but not wear and tear or a roof that has reached the end of its life. Check your policy and contact your insurer first. We can photograph and document the damage to support your claim.

Yes, our repairs include a written workmanship warranty, and the terms are set out on your invoice before work begins. Coverage depends on the type of repair and the condition of the surrounding roof. We explain exactly what is covered so you know what to expect.

Water often travels before it shows on a ceiling, so we trace it from the attic and the roof surface, checking flashing, vents, valleys, skylights and fasteners until we find where it actually gets in.

If the damage is limited and the rest of the roof is sound, a repair can add good years. If the roof is near the end of its life or problems are widespread, we will tell you a replacement is the better use of your money.

Call us at for the fastest response, or use the estimate request form and choose “Emergency repair” as the type of service. Tell us what is happening, where water is coming in, and the nearest intersection to your home so we can get to you quickly.

Yes. Emergency roof repair is available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week for active leaks and storm damage. Outside regular hours, phone us rather than using the website form so your call reaches someone right away.

Emergencies are given priority over all scheduled work, and we come as quickly as weather and safety allow. When you call, we give you an expected arrival time and tell you what to do to limit damage until the crew arrives.

No. Wet roofs are slippery, and storm damage can hide weakened decking, loose shingles and fallen power lines. Stay on the ground and check for damage from your yard or through a window. Leave roof access to a crew with fall protection.

Emergency tarping is a temporary cover fastened over a damaged area of the roof to stop rain from getting in. It protects the inside of your home until conditions are safe and dry enough for a permanent repair.

A properly installed tarp can protect a roof for several weeks, but it is a temporary measure, not a repair. Wind and sun wear tarps down over time, so we schedule the permanent repair as soon as weather allows.

The first visit is usually temporary: its purpose is to stop water from getting in and to prevent further damage. We then return to complete a permanent repair, or recommend a replacement if the damage is extensive, once the roof is dry and safe to work on.

Call a roofer first to stop further damage, because most insurance policies expect you to take reasonable steps to protect your home. Then contact your insurer to start the claim. We photograph and document the damage and the emergency work to support your claim.

Yes. Once the tree has been safely removed by an arborist or tree service, we secure the opening and assess the damage to the decking, rafters and roofing. If structural damage is found, we tell you plainly and explain what is needed before any permanent repair is done.

Water coming into the house, missing sections of roofing after a storm, or damage from a fallen tree or branch. Tell us what is happening and we will help you secure the roof as quickly as we can.

Early, ideally before framing is finished, so the roofing system, ventilation and flashing details are planned with the design rather than worked around later.

The cost depends on the length of your gutters, the height and number of storeys of your home, the roof pitch, and how much debris has built up. Homes under tall trees or with steep roofs take longer. We give you a free written price before any work begins, so you know the total up front.

Late fall is the most important time, after the leaves have dropped and before the heavy winter rains begin. Homes under evergreens, or with maples, oaks and alders nearby, often need a second cleaning in spring to clear needles, seeds and moss.

Common signs are water spilling over the gutter edge during rain, gutters sagging or pulling away from the fascia, plants or moss growing in the gutters, and puddles or soil erosion near the foundation. Water stains on siding or fascia boards are another sign that water is not draining properly.

Yes. When gutters overflow, water backs up under the roof edge and rots the fascia boards and roof decking. It can also pour down against siding and pool around the foundation, which can lead to basement leaks. On the coast, steady winter rain makes blocked gutters a bigger risk than in drier parts of BC.

Gutter guards reduce how often gutters need cleaning, especially under trees that drop large leaves. They do not stop fir and cedar needles, moss and fine debris completely, so gutters with guards still need checking and occasional cleaning. We can tell you whether guards make sense for your home.

Yes. We clear the gutters and flush the downspouts to make sure water flows freely to the ground or drain. We also remove the debris from your property and do a visual check of the roof edges while we are up there.

At least once a year, usually in late fall after the leaves drop. Homes under tall trees often need a second cleaning in spring.

Christmas light installation is priced by the linear foot, measured along each run of lights on your roofline. Your written quote lists the footage for each area, the rate per foot and the total. Steep or high sections that need extra safety equipment are shown on the quote, so there are no surprises.

Most homes take a few hours, depending on the footage, the height of the roof and how many areas are being lit. We confirm the time when we book your installation date.

No, you do not need to be home, as long as your lights are left out for us and we can reach your outdoor outlets. We test every strand before it goes up and confirm any changes with you before we leave.

Yes, when they are rated for outdoor use and connected properly. We use only outdoor-rated cords and ground fault protected outlets, keep connections off the ground and out of pooled water, and tell you if any of your strands are not safe for outdoor use.

LED Christmas lights use a small fraction of the power of older incandescent strands, so the added cost for a typical home is low. A timer that runs your lights only in the evening keeps the cost down further.

Takedown is quoted with your installation, also by the linear foot, so the whole season is priced in one place. We take lights down in January and remove every clip, leaving your roof and gutters as we found them.

We coil each strand and label it by area, such as front eaves or garage peak, and leave the lights with you for storage. Labelled strands make next year’s installation faster.

Our service focuses on rooflines, eaves, peaks, ridgelines, and window, door and railing outlines. If you would like trees or shrubs lit as well, ask when you request your quote and we will tell you what we can do.

By the linear foot of lights installed, measured along each run: eaves, gutters, peaks, ridgelines and outlines. Your written quote lists the footage for each area, the rate per linear foot and the total before any work begins, and takedown in January is quoted the same way.

Not when it is done properly. We use plastic clips made for gutters and shingle edges, so nothing is nailed, screwed or stapled into your roof, and every clip comes off at takedown.

Yes. We install the lights you already own. We test every strand first and let you know if any are worn or not rated for outdoor use.

Installations usually run from early November into December. Booking in October gives you the best choice of dates.

The cost depends on the size, height and pitch of the roof, the type of roofing, and whether the attic needs to be checked. We give you the price in writing before we book the inspection, so you know the total up front.

A roof inspection covers the shingles or roofing surface, flashing around chimneys, skylights and walls, vents and pipe boots, valleys, gutters and roof edges. Where there is access, we also check the attic for moisture, mould, daylight through the roof boards and signs of poor ventilation.

If your home has an attic entrance, we check it for signs of leaks, condensation and mould that cannot be seen from the roof. It helps to locate the attic hatch and clear the area around it before we arrive. Our team is quiet, clean and courteous while working inside your home.

You receive photographs of what we found and a plain-language explanation of the roof’s condition: what needs attention now, what to watch, and what the roof will likely need in the next few years. If repairs are needed, we explain your options and give you a written estimate.

Yes. A roofing professional can tell you how much life the roof has left and what repairs or replacement to budget for, which can affect your offer. A general home inspection often looks at the roof only from the ground or from a ladder at the edge.

No. A home inspector looks at the whole house, often without walking on the roof. A roof inspection is done by roofers who examine the roofing, flashing, ventilation and attic in detail and can estimate repair or replacement costs.

It can. Some insurers offer better premiums or deductibles, or remove exclusions for storm water damage, when a roof is inspected regularly or has documented maintenance. Check with your insurer about their requirements; we provide the photographs and written report they may ask for.

Yes, especially after high winds, heavy snow or a fallen branch. Storm damage such as lifted shingles or loose flashing is not always visible from the ground, and finding it early prevents leaks. Look from your yard, but do not go on the roof yourself.

We inspect roofs year round, but walking on a wet or icy roof is unsafe and can damage roofing. In wet weather we may check the attic and roof edges first and complete the roof surface on the next dry day. Rain can be a good time to find active leaks from inside the attic.

Before buying or selling a home, after a major windstorm, if you notice stains or granules in the gutters, or every few years once a roof is past its midlife.